Fertilization Should Be a Part of Spring Yard & Garden Cleanup

By C  Rae Hozer, Cumberland County Master Gardener

Because our property is wooded, we have lots of leaves. I favor a dry, sunny day with temperatures in the 50 to 65 degree range for cleanup chores and also like a forecast of rain later that week. Each new year normally has mild days in January and  February good for clearing leaves from beds and borders, cutting off at their base then removing old plant stalks and tall ornamental grasses, and/or gathering branches and twigs blown down out of the tree tops by gusty autumn and winter winds. No matter how well the January and February cleanup goes, there are always more falling leaves in March and April because some of our white oaks and pin oaks won’t release leaves from the prior year until buds for this spring’s foliage start to swell.

Dry leaves are the primary ingredient of natural soil conditioners like compost and leaf mulch. Organic material improves soil texture and drainage. Making these products free at home makes good sense in a bad economy. Whole leaves will clump and can form a water barrier, so leaves should be chopped into bits and pieces using a lawn mower or leaf shredder. I pile the chipped leaves out of sight in my woods. Shredded leaves decompose making leaf mulch (with no additional effort) in about 8 or 9 months. Once grass starts growing well, I gather mower clippings and put them along with chipped leaves, into my barrel composter. Greater air flow in a tumbling barrel along with nitrogen and moisture from the grass, speed decomposition to just 2 to 3 weeks. Top dress gardens with compost and leaf mulch or work them into the soil.

After clearing debris from a section of landscape, I fertilize the groomed area. That’s one reason to work outdoors just ahead of a rain storm. It insures quick delivery of elements needed for spring growth. Rainwater carries fertilizer nutrients down into soil around plant roots.

Early in the year, I recommend higher nitrogen fertilizers for lawns (comprised of cool season turf) but a different plant food blend which has less nitrogen but a greater amount of phosphorous and potassium for landscape plants and gardens. A bag of 6-12-12 general purpose fertilizer is my choice for non-turf sections of my yard in late winter and early spring.

The numbers listed on fertilizer containers are the percentages of the three primary nutrients (in the order Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium) contained in that plant food formulation. Each element has specialized effectiveness. Nitrogen (N) makes leaves green as well as stimulates growth of stems and leaves. Phosphorus (P) targets roots, flowers and fruit. That is why what is known as a “starter solution” (water and a fertilizer high in P) is used in planting holes to stimulate root development of transplants. Potassium (chemical symbol K) boosts overall plant health. Without K, plants grow slowly and may have off-colored leaf splotches.

General tip for timing nitrogen applications: Do use high-nitrogen fertilizer just before or while a plant is in a growth phase but not during or just before a dormant phase. Too much nitrogen can cause problems. My yard grass is a fescue blend. Since grass is grown primarily for its green stems and leaves, it benefits from a good shot of nitrogen (13 percent or higher) In our region, cool season turf grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass and fescue varieties grow vigorously between March and mid-April then become semi-dormant in hot, dry weather (May through early August). Their best growth is during September and October. Don’t fertilize this kind of turf between mid-April and mid-August. More fertilization tips next week.

Plateau Gardening is written by Master Gardeners for those tending home landscapes and gardens in Tennessee’s Upper Cumberland Region. Contact UT Extension Cumberland County, P.O. Box 483, Crossville, TN 38557, (phone 931-484-6743) for quick answers to specific questions, free publications, or to learn about becoming a Master Gardener. Email comments or yard and garden inquiries to Master Gardener Rae, mgardenerrae@frontiernet.net.