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Plant Shrubs in
Autumn By C. Rae Hozer,
Cumberland County Master Gardener Question: “We
have evergreen shrubs that died from drought or the freeze or from some unknown
cause. We would like to replace them. Is it better to do this in the fall or the
spring? Any suggestions as to what plants to get?” Answer: Most perennial plants with woody stems can be put in any time when the
ground is not frozen. However, landscape and horticulture experts say shrubs and
trees planted during the autumn months have an advantage over those installed in
springtime. Woody plants need good
roots to bring in enough water and minerals to support both above– and
below-ground growth. Balled and burlap (B&B) specimens are dug from fields
where they’ve been raised. Lots of roots get left behind. Trees and shrubs
grown in containers have little extra space in their pots for roots from the
get-go. The health and vigor of newly located landscape specimens depend in part
on how well their root systems develop. The earth stays warmer than the
atmosphere as days grow shorter from September through November. Soil
temperatures below the surface stay sufficiently high for root development
throughout a typical Tennessee autumn. There is no need for new leaves or
branches so all of the transplant’s resources can be devoted to roots in the
fall. On the other hand, the air temperature rises more quickly than that of the
ground during the spring months. Trees and shrubs set out too early just sit and
wait until the soil warms enough for root growth. In addition, spring
transplants must split their energy between putting out new shoots and leaves
and establishing roots.
The first consideration
in shrub selection is homeowner preference. What attractive shrubs or small
trees have you seen growing in your community? Make new friends while learning
about plants you admire: stop and ask the folks who live there for names of
plants growing in the yard. Do research before purchasing a specimen with
appealing looks from a catalog or bringing one home from a garden center or
nursery. Be sure it is winter hardy here. Match each plant’s needs and
characteristics to the site. How much sunlight must it get each day? Is morning
or afternoon sun better? What are the moisture requirements? Shade plants often
want both less sun and more water, but a few prefer dry shade. Though some
shrubs are drought tolerant when mature, they typically need extra water during
the first one or two years at a new location. Irrigation may be required while
they establish a good root system. Will the plant’s mature height and spread
fit into the space available? Don’t create a maintenance nightmare by getting
shrubs that must constantly be pruned to keep them smaller than their natural
size. Once you’ve found a
shrub whose looks you like which also matches conditions in your yard, don’t
go overboard. A mixed border with species variety is a better than having many
plants of the same species near each other. Mono-cultures often lead to
landscape headaches. Why just one or two arborvitae, Leyland cypress, or
junipers in a single species grouping always die, is one of nature’s
mysteries. The empty spots really show up and can make the whole landscape look
out of balance. Too many of a single species planted close together also
increases the risk that an infection or insect infestation which hits one will
more easily spread to the others. Use proper planting
techniques. Planting too deep is the number one mistake made when shrubs and
trees are transplanted. The planting hole should be no deeper than the root
ball! Plateau Gardening
is
written by Tennessee Master Gardeners about home landscapes and gardening in our
state’s Upper Cumberland Region. For answers to specific yard and garden
questions or to learn how to become a Master Gardener contact UT Extension
Cumberland County, P.O. Box 483, Crossville, TN 38557, (phone 931-484-6743).
Email inquiries to “mgardenerrae@frontiernet.net”. Email questions
may be answered either individually or through future newspaper articles.
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